Monday, August 8, 2016

July 25 - August 7

7/25, Monday - Green Mtn - 6 miles, 2500', 1:46
Easy with RMR, everyone seemed to be tired (even Smith and Sage) so it was a casual chatty run/hike to the top. Knee and hip were still pretty sore on the downhill.

7/26, Tuesday - Buff Course - 5 miles, 0:37
Easy around the CU XC course that I now live right next too, heavy legs.

7/27, Wednesday - Climbing: Bastille Crack & Ruper - 3:15
Met Anton dark and early (5:15) before work for an intro to Eldo. First we did the Bastille Crack, an ultra-classic line right off of the road, I was nervous going in (Eldorado Canyon grades are way harder than Boulder Canyon) but it felt super secure and the first pitch was fantastic. I had heard horror stories about sprinting up talus fields on the approach from Kyle; we went at a good clip but never uncomfortably fast, over to Ruper. Ruper is a 6 pitch, 5.8 line that felt like a Boulder Canyon 5.9. Tony shot up the route barely placing any protection for himself. I found the wide crack on the 2nd pitch to be the crux for me, just need to stick your entire arm into it to find a hold. By simul-climbing we were able to do the whole route in just 2 pitches, the second being very long. Awesome first day in Eldo!
Finishing off the last moves. Photo: Anton
5/28, Thursday - Climbing: Cascade Crag - 4:50
First with Jack, I lead Smallville (5.10b), with several hangs at the tough roof where I had to use almost a shoulder deep jam. We then moved the anchor and did two laps on Thunderhead (5.10a) to get it dialed. I then dropped off Jack and picked up Abby and went back to Cascade. I lead up Erika, she followed then we both top roped Thunderhead.

7/29, Friday - Bike: NCAR, Flagstaff, Boulder Creek, Finkel & Garf - 52 miles, 3700', 4:00
Warm-up climb on NCAR before biking up Flagstaff Road to the amphitheater turn-off. On the descent I stashed the bike and did a few pumpy climbs up the Beer Barrel boulder which is an easy V0 50ft from the road. Then I descended the rest of Flagstaff and up a bit of Boulder Canyon to the dome for 3 quick laps. In the evening I then biked to meet Abby, then to Finkel & Garf Brewery with her, and back, and back to my place. Bike commuting is fun!

7/30, Saturday - Off

7/31, Sunday - Climbing: Eldorado Canyon - 2:15
Kyle led Long John Wall which we stretched to 2 pitches then we ditched rope and romped up Boulder Direct, an easy scramble. We then went ropeless for Wind Ridge, the start I guess is a 5.8 but its 4ft off the ground and very secure, the second crux would be really tricky if you didn't know to use your bum and sit against this flake, but with Kyle feeding me the beta it went fine. Can't wait to link these into my Boulder bike/climb circuit!

8/1, Monday - Bike/Climb: Eldorado/Flatirons/Flagstaff/Boulder Canyon - 48 miles, 6100', 6:40
Met Kyle at 5:30 on the bik for the ride to Eldo. We went through Boulder Direct and Wind Ridge then made the long hike over to Icarus. Icarus is a 6 pitch route with sustained moderate climbing and finished with an outrageous arete. Absolutely phenomenal. We then biked to NCAR and jogged over to the Backporch for a scramble in rock shoes and we were happy to have them, it was a tough route that you also have to downclimb (gross). Kyle then had to split for his own obligations, so I ventured up Flagstaff Mountain by myself (with a stop at Chautauqua to chug some water). I turned around at the amphitheater itself and did 3 reps on the Beer Barrel before descending to Eben G. Fine park for more water. I then biked up the canyon a bit further, climbed the Dome 3 times by East Slab then took a slightly circuitous route back home.
Kyle downclimbing near the top of Tower One
8/2, Tuesday - Bastille Crack, Boulder Direct, Wind Ridge - 4:00
Jack lead the first two pitches and I the second of Bastille, it was my first ever trad lead and I definitely did not extend the pro enough. You needed an amount of force to alter the earth's orbit to overcome the rope drag, but with the help of Jason who simuled over us the pieces in question were removed and the slack was pulled through. Great strength workout! Hiked back down and saw Tony's shoes at the base with him soloing up, that's bold. Put away the rope and went up Boulder Direct with Jack then he elected to not scramble Wind Ridge, but I did and we hiked down together once I was done.

8/3, Wednesday - AM: Sharkstooth - 9 miles, 3200', 3:34 || PM: South La Plata Scout - 5 miles, 900', 0:48
Kyle and I got a relatively late start so we ended up having to park in the Bear Lake parking area rather than the Glacier Gorge, it only added a half mile though. The approach is pretty straightforward and after some boulder crawling we were changing into climbing shoes at the base of the Northeast Ridge. The route up was sustained with great exposure; the crux is about halfway up getting through a stemming to handcrack move, easy once the holds and sequence was found. The summit was Longs-esque, beautiful route to a relatively boring summit. The best views of the Sharkstooth are from Andrew's Tarn. The downclimb was a bit grungy but its well worth it for the route up.
Kyle working up the boulderfield on the approach
Kyle enjoying the spectacular position two-thirds up the tooth.
8/4, Thursday - Belford, Missouri, Huron - 16 miles, 8600', 6:27
Slept in the car at Winfield then rode my bike down the road to the Missouri Gulch TH. Already on Belford I was wearing everything I brought for warmth minus the poles I forgot with the bike start. Missouri's East Ridge was once a grim prospect, but is now my favorite line in the Sawatch with the line totally memorized. I descended to a saddle with Iowa Pk and surfed down prime scree to a grassy basin, but it felt a bit slow, I think the standard trail would be faster/easier (especially at night). I found a great trail on the west side of Clohesy Lake that took me to treeline but then I made the mistake of taking ridge listed as "class 2+", the plus in this case meaning 2-3 more classes. So, that wasted a ton of time and got me pretty cold. I descended the standard trail to Winfield and bailed on La Plata with the weather and my available gear.
The rotten rock band on Missouri's East Ridge
Looking back towards the Clohesy Lake drainage ascending Huron. Moody.
8/5, Friday - Bike & Eldo - 19 miles, 2900, 3:07
Biked to Eldo and tried to buy an annual pass but they wouldn't let me because I didn't have my car to put the sticker on and they thought I would just pass around the sticker to my friends. Come on, lame! So since I was already talking with the ranger I couldn't even sneak in, so I had to pay the three dollars for a day pass. So dumb! Warmed up with Boulder Direct then went through the motions on Wind Ridge. I can almost do the enitre route in one flow aside from the mega-flake you sit on I have to briefly pause for. After some surveilance I found the West Chimney and scrambled that to the Red Ledge and finished to the top of Tower One with Icarus. wove my way down the East Slabs and biked home.
8/6, Saturday - Bastille + Calypso x 3
Early in Eldo with Kyle before work. We pitched out Bastille awkwardly in 3 pitches, I lead the second and felt solid. We then took turns on Calypso getting the moves dialed.
Kyle leading Calypso.
8/7, Sunday - Off
Felt like death last night and despite waking up feeling miles better I took the safe route with an off day.

With widespread activities I can't even judge weeks on numbers anymore. I was pretty tired by the end of the week though, so success.

Monday, July 25, 2016

"Fast Pfiffner" Traverse

The Pfiffner Traverse is described in Gerry Roach's guide to the Indian Peaks Wilderness, although it includes a bit more than just the Indian Peaks. The start is at Milner Pass in Rocky Mountain National Park and traverses 70 miles south along the continental divide to the next paved road, Berthoud Pass. Along the way awaits numerable summits, peaceful meadows, ridge scrambles and very few people. There a few notorious sections along the divide where the tundra morphs into steep and jagged knife edges, the "Fast Pfiffner" avoids these sections by dropping into basins to the West then returns to the divide once the coast is relatively clear.
The route.
We weighed our options quite a bit on whether or not we would plan for sleep. Its a long ways, but carrying extra gear for just a couple hours of what would likely be sub-par sleep seemed silly -- you can sleep when you're dead. There is only one other completion of a single push on this route (that I'm aware of), and thankfully, I know the man! Mark Oveson completed the route in 37 hours in 2011 and graciously responded to a bombardment of questions promptly. He said the route for him was an experiment pre-Hardrock, and hey what-do-ya-know Abby and I both need that same sort of experiment -- no sleep it is! He also volunteered to meet us at Monarch Lake, roughly the halfway point, at what would likely be a very dark hour of night.

Inspirational words at the Pearl Dragon restaurant the night before in Granby
We dropped one car at Berthoud Pass Friday night then attempted to get some sleep in the car at a trailhead parking lot only to be kicked out around midnight. The ranger was nice and recommended us another place to sleep outside the park. The impact though was that with the commute to location number two we got maybe 2 cumulative hours of sleep, maximum.

The highly official permit the ranger told us to right down and leave on our windshield. Ranger 421 for the win!
We began our journey just after 5AM Saturday morning by headlamp followed by sunrise up to the first peak, Mt Ida. It was a very moderate gradient which would be the theme for the next several peaks. As the sun rose in the sky further, we made our way across 7 more gentle summits, passing through a massive heard of elk and trekking through bountiful wildflowers. Hallet Peak, our 8th summit, marked the end of the first section of the continental divide.

Abby nearing the summit of Mt Ida
A rather large herd of Elk on the way towards Flattop Mountain
Refilling water from some snowmelt along the divide.
We descended on good trail west for a couple miles toward the North Inlet before turning south -- our last segment of trail for many miles -- to Lake Nokoni and Lake Nanita. On this section I felt very tired; heavy eyelids and cloudy mind. I found my rescue from the doldrums to be singing to myself out-loud for a bit -- a bit weird I suppose, but it worked. Abby was feeling the same way here, but I figured she would be fine pulling herself out of it as I had. Nokoni and Nanita were stunning to say the least. We made our way over a small saddle just northeast of Andrews Peak, through a small basin and then down a rather nasty bushwhack to the East Inlet drainage.

Just above Lake Nokoni
Ptarmigan Mountain from Lake Nanita
Unnamed drainge northwest of Andrews Peak
Upon finally reaching Fourth Lake, Abby's condition hadn't improved much but she remained far more upbeat and optimistic than I could have expected. Maximum stoke. We found a very faint social trail which lead us to treeline, but here the weather turned a bit sour. With a long climb ahead of us and rumblings of thunder we elected to play it safe and wait out a short storm under an overhanging boulder. The scenery was still unbelievable and despite the setbacks the journey thus far had been phenomenal. It wasn't long before the clouds parted for us to continue on. We had lost even more time here though and I was beginning to get apprehensive about how late in the day it was, we still had many miles ahead before we even got back to a trail, and then several more miles of trail to Monarch Lake. I voiced my concerns and began trying to accelerate our pace.

The southern geology of the East Inlet drainage. The prominent arĂȘte just right of center is Aiguille de Fleur, a promising looking alpine scramble I'd love to check out.
A distant Abby climbing out of the Andrews-Alice col
Refilling water and while waiting for Abby to finish the climb to Isolation's west ridge. (Sponsor Plug:) Loved the gear choice for the day: X-Alp 20 pack was perfect, I used the dedicated crampon pocket as a dedicated food pocket! Would never attempt something like this without my trusty wizard sticks either!
We slowly made our way around the loose southwest slopes of Isolation Peak. The sky adopted a tint of orange as we rejoined the divide and after weighing our options I decided to start making executive decisions. Abby was only getting deeper into mega-bonk-land, the primary goal now was to get her moving as fast as possible and dig her out of the hole. We stopped briefly on the divide: I made her drink as much water and eat as much food as she could stomach then took her pack to carry myself. I told her to just keep hiking south on the divide and I would catch up in a few minutes. I changed into my warmer clothes in preparation for night and prepared her warm clothes. I then caught back up to her so she could gear up for night. I had been very thoughtful about my nutrition and maintaining a positive mental state and was glad to be feeling almost the same as I had 15 hours earlier.

Shadows getting longer heading further up Isolation Peak. Longs looms tall in the background.
Longs poking out from the beautiful west face of Isolation Peak.
We had to bop over two more mountains before we could start the long descent, they are very moderate inclines but forward progress remained slow. We reached the (almost) summit of Ogalalla in complete darkness. Abby was barely awake, we had one short climb left and then we could descend significant elevation which I hoped would help immensely. I stood on the summit of "Ooh La La!" a little after 10PM and took in the moment. It was both surreal and intimidating. Miles to the east and nearly 8,000ft below the city lights of the front range twinkled; to the west I could see Abby's light traversing just below the summit (uphills were on the edge of impossible, so she skipped the true summit), what appeared to be a lone campfire in the distance and very far away, the few lights of Frasier Valley marking our eventual endpoint.

The final rays of light behind the Never Summer mountains to the northwest from the south ridge of Isolation.
The next section was terrible. Completely off trail, we needed to descend to a saddle east of Cooper Peak, contour around a small tarn, then around Island Lake, over a small rib then down to Gourd Lake where we would rejoin trail. Some remaining snowfields were a godsend to shoe ski down with ease but the final half mile wound its way around short slabby dropoffs and painfully healthy fields of willows scattered among trees. I had the route well committed to memory on a macro scale as well as the navigational operations on my watch, but the nuances of hiking through the complicated terrain was immensely time consuming trial and error without the ability see more than 20ft in front of me. I'm not sure I've ever been so frustrated! It was very mentally taxing to be so focused on route finding, making sure Abby was moving well and safely and trying to remember to keep my own self in good condition.

A daylight picture taken from SummitPost of the complicated terrain below Cooper Peak (there is even more not pictured above too!), many curses were said.
After what felt like a year we finally rejoined the trail, it was the homestretch, Abby's condition was starting to improve and the overall mood was drastically more positive. Still, we had a long 10 mile hike out to Monarch Lake to meet Mark who we had been in radio contact with intermittently throughout the journey. By following our SPOT he had been able to keep track of us all day long. It would have been nice to jog back out, but running wasn't quite in the cards so we marched along as quick as walking allows. At the Cascade Creek (Pawnee Pass trail, essentially) I was happy to see Abby moving much easier and complaining less of of "almost falling asleep every 5 seconds" and "seeing less faces in trees and rocks". Stellar, but we weren't done yet. The remaining 4 miles were easier flatter trail and we were able to jog a few sections. My watch started beeping, I looked down and realized the time was 4AM, it was my wake-up alarm from 24 hours earlier. We passed the Arapaho Pass junction, went around Monarch Lake and after 23 hours and 31 minutes were finished.

Despite the horrible time of day, Mark was patiently alone in the parking lot on a fold out cot with water boiling and a pot of hot soup. I can't express how thankful I am for his immutable generosity and support. I wolfed down the soup and tripped over my now untied shoe lace and took an actually very hard fall in the parking lot, spilling a cup of hot chocolate  and cutting my knee and elbow. An ironic and fitting conclusion.

Well, we didn't finish the whole traverse, Monarch Lake was 45 miles into the ~70ish mile route and is the same place Mark bailed the first time he tried the route. The vert was only around 11,000ft but Mark agrees that on paper the route looks a lot easier than it feels in real life. Out of two Hardrock 100 finishes in two attempts, the Pfiffner took Mark one DNF and a time longer than both Hardrocks when he did finish it. I can't wait to get in the ring with this traverse for a rematch next summer! The overall experience was amazing, the scenery far exceeded expectations, the company was great and I was able to gain tons of experience and confidence going forwards.

Looking back north from Hallet Peak
We summited 10 peaks : Mt Ida, Chief Cheley Pk, Cracktop, Sprague Mtn, Knobtop Mtn, Ptarmigan Pt, Flattop Mtn, Hallet Pk, Ogalalla Pk, (well, apparently we just missed the summit of Ogalalla in the dark, but pretty close) and Ooh La La!

Sunday, July 17, 2016

June 27 - July 17

6/27, Monday - Chiefs Head Pk, Mt Alice, Tanima Pk - 21 miles, 6800', 6:52
From the Wild Basin TH its a long 7 mile approach to the start of the climb up Chiefs Head and this morning my grogginess almost made me turn around. Luckily when I got out of the trees and could see the peaks I felt more alive. Getting up Chiefs Head was a simple talus march with great view of the Longs massif. I was excited for the 3rd class hourglass ridge on Alice, but I didn't find any 3rd, all 2nd -- still, a cool peak. Tanima is about a thousand feet lower than Alice so it was a fairly easy traverse over. The one problem of the day was my premature descent down the north face of Tanima's east ridge. It got fairly tricky in several places so I ended up traversing back and forth along the face looking for a line that wouldn't cliff out. Long run back in on progressively more crowded trail the closer I got (its technically in RMNP so it gets mobbed).
Timer-shot on Alice, Longs is the high point on the left with Meeker just between my legs.
The terrible downclimb choice.
6/28, Tuesday - AM: High Lonesome - 15 miles, 3000', 3:01 || PM: Salomon Group - 4 miles, 800', 0:52
Morning trip to the high country with Jack and Ford until his shoe catastrophically tore. He walked backed to the car while Jack and I finished up the classic loop. Salomon run in the evening.

6/29, Wednesday - Bike - 14 miles
Feet hurt from the miles the past two days so I kept it easy and rolled around the creek path on my commuter bike.

6/30. Thursday - Eagles Nest - 8 miles, 1300', 1:08
Took a recommendation from Jack to get in a run on my way to the Sawatch, awesome trail. Perfect "California" smooth single-track winding into the alpine that was 100% running, which was good to do.

6/31, Friday - AM: Mt Belford, Missouri Mtn - 12 miles, 6000', 4:13 || PM: The Dome
Jack and I made it up to Belford in a cold snow/sleet/rain storm at a casual pace. Jack was in shorts and a light coat so he turned around while I in slightly warmer garb continued on to Missouri. Well, I actually got a tad disoriented in the clouds which socked in the summit and by mistake ran towards Oxford. I realized my mistake when the clouds parted and turned around. Once actually at Elkhead pass I elected to scope out the rather notoriously precarious East Ridge. I certainly found some loose rock but nothing to out of the ordinary for alpine scrambling, in fact I found a nice line with one 4th class dihedral then a traverse across gully to a ledge system that took me to the summit no problem. It took some time and trials to find but to climb this in the rain inside a cloud gives me plenty of confidence in this route for the future (which potentially will be at night). Easy jog back down to Missouri Gulch TH. In the evening the rain never arrived so Kyle and I went over to East Slab on the Dome. Kyle led it once (placing 2 pieces the whole time) then I followed. We then each solo'ed the route twice feeling confident on the bomber jams and jugs.

7/1, Saturday - Green Mtn & Dome - 13 miles, 2300' 2:15 || PM: Dome - 1:17
Raining when I got up so I killed some time waiting for the rain to stop and the rock to dry by doing a quick lap on Green. I decided I felt good enough to put out a moderate effort and made the round trip Gregory-to-Gregory in 0:57 (up in 37min, a PR). By the time I was done things had dried out so I biked to Boulder Canyon and found Kyle up on the rock already. I did two laps on the East Slab before biking back home. I couldn't help myself and rode back up in the evening, I only did one lap, but on the approach I carelessly slipped on some wet dirt on a rock (this is on a completely flat official trail...), I fell and smacked my elbow and hip pretty good on another rock. Extremely stiff in the evening, hoping it resolves quickly by morning.

7/3, Sunday - Off
Hip hurt too much to really even consider getting out.

Week Totals:
70 miles

Still managed a reasonable volume week despite being forced to take a day off.

7/4, Monday - Dome Tonerre Tower, 1st Flatiron, 1st Pinnacle
Biked to the dome for one lap on East Slab with Kyle then was picked up by Jack to head further up the canyon for sport climbing. We did 3 pitches of fun climbing before I had to get to work. After work I biked straight to Chautauqua to scramble the 1st Flatiron via Red Slab and 1st Pinnacle via the SE Face with Kyle. Lots of biking in between everything.

7/5, Tuesday - Dome, Salomon Run
Same old bike to East Slab for 3 laps then up to Chautauqua for the Salomon group run. Since I can't move too well yet I was sweeping at the back. I'm really not a patient person when it comes to running so it was mentally testing to have to move so much slower than I wanted to. Biking between everything.

7/6, Wednesday - Dome, 2nd Flatiron
I snuck in front of two parties gearing up at the base and was thus limited to only one lap on East Slab. I felt incredibly efficient today though, going bike-to-bike in 18min. I had a good bit of time to kill so I did hill repeats on the bike below Chautauqua for 25 minutes. I then met Abby to pace her to the women's strava CR (a couple ladies not on strava might have fast times on this) on the freeway car-to-car time. Anyways, she shattered it but could take off 10 minutes once she learns that her Sportiva Mutants will stick to everything.

7/7, Thursday - Bike: 4 x NCAR - 22 miles, 2400', 1:31
Four repeats up and down the NCAR hill. Can't wait to be back on my feet.

7/8, Friday - Tonnerre Tower + Hygeine Loop - 35 miles, 1000', 1:50
Climbed in Boulder Canyon with Kyle before an easy spin around the plains. I was happy to lead Stayin' Alive without issue and then we took turns getting Before the Deluge dialed in.

Sun beams on the plains.
7/9, Saturday - AM: 3 x East Slab || PM: Longs Peak 13 miles, 5100', 6:46
Made a trip up to the Dome with Kyle in the morning before work. After work Abby and I set out for Longs, leaving the trailhead around 5PM. The ranger on duty looked very worried until I told him this would be my tenth or so time on the route, then he laughed and wished us well. I had never brought this much stuff in summer: crampons, axe, rope, harness, belay device, headlamp, water, food, an extra layer and gloves. We climbed the snow all the way up Lambs Slide rather than scrambling the loose rock rib to the left, this was way more enjoyable. Broadway was fully a-bloomin' with flowers and the sunset was going off in similar fashion so we took our time with a long stop on Table Ledge. We made the summit at around 9PM when it got fully dark, but were able to faintly see the trail of smoke billowing out of the fire at Caribou Ranch. Since she had never been on Cables at all, I had hauled a 30 meter, 8mm rope up. She would have been able to figure it out just fine down-soloing, I think, but it was nice to not worry about doing that in pitch darkness. My headlamp was definitely on the tail end of its batteries so I poached light from the sun Abby seemed to have on her forehead on the way back down. Hip felt great!
Ascending Lambs Slide
A few wildflowers on the Broadway at the step-around boulder!
Good exposure on lower Kieners
Taking a break to watch the sunset on Table Ledge
Final light from the summit.
7/10, Sunday - Off
Work and then left for the Sawatch.

Week Totals:
25 miles

Injuries....At least it healed up quick.

7/11, Monday - Mt Yale, Mt Columbia, Mt Havard, Mt Oxford, Mt Belford, Missouri Mtn, Huron Pk - 28 miles, 15400' 14:59
Whooof, long day. Set out at 3AM heading towards a planned pickup at Missouri Gulch at 6PM, meaning I had a few options on how I would finish. I took the Avalanche Gulch route to Yale for the first time, didn't seem that different from Denny Creek but it would cut off road, so its a winner. My planned descent was thwarted by hellacious winds on the NW aspects so I just took a scree gully straight down, which actually worked quite well and I found the old airplane wreckage! I found the long plugging climb up Columbia wonderful but my experience on Rabbit Ridge was miserable. Its really quite terrible on loose and unstable rock, I backtracked and went around when I wasn't comfortable and wound up annoyingly wasting about 2 hours here. Once on Harvard by conventional means I didn't really try to find a nice route down besides just aiming for the avy chute on Oxford, which meant a bit of willow thrash but it was over quick. The climb up to Oxford feels sooo long, despite being the shortest of the day's big climbs. I suppose its just very steep (2,000ft in under a mile). Anyways, I was running low on calories here and the day was winding up so I had a 5 hour energy to power me through the rest. Unfortunately, I didn't quite have enough calories in me for it to work well. Instead I felt the mental stimulus, burnt up all my energy sprinting down to Elkhead Pass and then slowly meandered up Missouri. Even had I not lost all that time on Rabbit Ridge I don't think I would have had time to finish my plan to Huron. I had to push the downhill to keep my car shuttle from waiting -- and also sneak under 15 hours, by 20 seconds. Ended feeling very tired but as much due to the caffeine snafu, with more consistent fueling and a couple tweaks in the route I'm getting really excited!
Sunrise heading down Yale, un-picture-able is the death wind which was ripping over the ridge to the left. I strayed a bit from my plan so as to not be literally blown away.
A nice flowered spot to empty my shoes, time for some gaiters! Nice maiden voyage for these new kicks!
On top of Belford, Harvard is the high point on the left, Yale is the distant highpoint in the center with snowfield just below the summit. Missouri is just out of the frame to the right, as well as Oxford out of frame left.
7/12, Tuesday - Royal Arch - 4 miles, 1200', 1:00
Easy with the Salomon Group and my trusty poles. The left was is being a diva and refuses to collapse without the force of the earth pulling it apart.

7/13, Wednesday - Tonnerre Tower Climbiing
I finally took the packaging off of my rope! Abby and I went to Tonnerre Tower since it was already dark and I knew exactly where to go. I lead the first route then set up a top rope. I was able to use my mega-bright bike light to flood the rock so it was actually quite lit up. Across the canyon moonlight was bathing Dream Canyon and Boulder Falls, pretty cool evening!

Beware of the evil doctor pineapple-head shadow
7/14, Thursday - Ypsilon Mtn & Fairchild Mtn - 18 miles, 6800', 6:05
Started from Lawn Lake and ran up to Ypsilon lake -- with a black bear sighting on the way! -- where I shortly thereafter identified the thin but easy to follow approach trail to the beautiful Spectacle Lakes. From Spectacle I hiked up a gully to mount Blitzen Ridge. The scramble was phenomenal in rock quality, sustained technicality and exposure. Its the best alpine scramble I've ever been on. I felt pretty tired on the final push up to Ypsilon but found some energy to climb strongly up to Fairchild. From Fairchild it was a short jog down to the saddle and join the Lawn Lake trail.

Ypsilon's imposing east face from Spectacle Lake. Blitzen Ridge ascends the right side.
Looking back down the ridge from near the top.
7/15, Friday - 3 x Dome + Green Mtn - 7 miles, 3000', 1:59
Bike to the Dome for 3 snappy laps, I'd like to learn Cozyhang or the Owl on ropes so I can add that to the circuit up there; maybe something on Elephant Buttress too. Then I biked to Chautauqua for a moderately paced lap in 56:44 (38:22 up, 18:22 down). Pushed the bike home hard to go under 2 hours for the outing -- barely, 1:59:55. Pretty cool to be able to pack rock climbing, cycling, running and hiking all into a 2 hour excursion from my doorstep! Oh, Boulder I love you so.

7/16, Saturday - 2 x East Slab - 6 miles, 600', 0:57
Two easy laps by bike. Would have done at least one more but a roped party had begun on my second time down.

7/17, Sunday - Longs Pk - 9 miles, 5000', 2:26
Tempo effort after work. Up in 1:35 and down at just enough effort to break 2:30. Felt very flat on the climb, just didn't have a high gear to work uphill on -- tough workout to end a tough week.

Week Totals:
63 miles

Lots of time on my feet this week. Looking for a generally easy next few days before a nice experiment next weekend!

Monday, June 27, 2016

June 13 - June 26

6/13, Monday - Green Mtn - 6 miles, 2500', 1:48
Standard RMR.

6/14, Tuesday - 1st Flatiron Tempo + Salomon - 5 miles, 3000', 1:38
Met Kendrick before the group run to hammer out a tempo lap of the 1st. I felt really good on the approach running strong until the final 3 or 4 switchbacks before the rock, just to get my heart rate down a bit. I felt like molasses on the scramble and was more than a bit frusterated to see a roped party right in the thick of the slot shortcut. I hadn't been the other way in months so I lost a bit of time there. I was then surprised/stoked to see my split on the face of 11:09, definitely could have broken 11min had the slot been open. Descended to Chautauqua for a round trip time of 34:32. Salomon group run and gelato afterwards.

6/15, Wednesday - Satan's Slab, Fist, Green Mtn - 6 miles, 2600', 2:01
Skunk Canyon was opened early (it is closed half the year for raptor nesting), so I finally got back in there. Today was supposed to be somewhat relaxed though so I limited myself to Satan's Slab, which was just as thin or thinner than I remember before hiking over to the Fist and then Green.

6/16, Thursday - Longs Peak - 11 miles, 5700', 5:25
The goal was to take Kyle up the Cables route, which we kind of succeeded in doing. We made great time to the base of the route but found the dihedral absolutely soaking and chocked with ice. I climbed up as far as I felt comfortable and tried punching the ice off to avail. We then downclimbed a bit and ascended a smooth slab of granite up to another ledge which traversed right to easier terrain. We ran into Peter on top (him ascending Kieners, saying it was perfect), he was headed down to Cables. He brought a rappel line and we should have just asked to borrow that as you will read. We definitely weren't downclimbing Cables so we thought the NW gully would shortcut the keyhole route well. Unfortunately, this too was full of ice so we humped back over the summit for a long descent of the standard keyhole. Having expected a much shorter day we were pretty beat and elated to finally reach running water in the boulder field.

6/17, Friday - Grays & Torreys - 7 miles, 3600', 2:21
With Jason and Doug. Tempo'ed up to Torreys hoping to break an hour but it wasn't in the cards today, 1:04:59. Waited to regroup on top before tagging Grays and running back down.

A photo posted by Jason Antin (@jasonantin) on

6/18, Saturday - 2nd, 1st, Morning After, Challenger, Takin' Care of Business, Hammerhead, Achean Pronouncement, Primal Rib - 8 miles, 4000', 3:30
Started stupid early to squeeze a bunch in before work which meant it was still basically dark for most of the 1st scramble. After I was heading down from Challenger I randomly decided I could do the chimney of Takin' Care of Business and it ended up going quite smoothly. Getting over to south skunk canyon was a bit heinous but soon enough I was enjoying the crack on Achean Pronouncement. I completely forgot how to downclimb off of that so I ended up doing some horrible zig zag down the west face then bailed halfway up Primal Rib to be able to get some breakfast before work.

A photo posted by Cordis Hall (@cordisimo) on

6/19, Sunday - Longs Pk - 11 miles, 5100', 3:55
Boulder was far too hot run when I finished work so I drove straight to Longs. After getting some good beta I thought Kieners was worth a shot, I could always turn around. Well, I got to Lambs Slide and found the snow to be absolutely perfect, didn't even need rocks for hand traction (I still brought them just in case the snow changed though). Broadway was essentially clear and aside from a couple very wet (basically raining) spots the climb was nice and dry. Descending Cables felt very casual given the last few times its either been in winter with numb hands and crampons or earlier this week with 4 inches of ice on everything. Easy jog back down to the car with several stops to turn around and watch the sunset.

A photo posted by Cordis Hall (@cordisimo) on

Week Totals:
55 miles

Good high volume week with quality time up high and at high intensity. I also spent most of the outings hanging out with good friends so that was even better.

6/20, Monday - Longs Pk - 11 miles, 5100', 4:01
After only being home for 9 hours I was back heading for Longs, this time with Kyle for his virgin trip up Kieners. We were able to follow all the steps I had kicked across the snow last night needing zero traction at all. Its always a priviledge to see someone on Broadway for the first time, so special. Cables was even more of a waterfall than yesterday but we got down just fine. This route is also perfect as there is running water every 10 minutes after you make it to Chasm Lake, so with a few snacks in my pocket I hardly need to bring anything!

A photo posted by Cordis Hall (@cordisimo) on

6/21, Tuesday - Freeway & Salomon Group - 5 miles, 2300', 1:06
Easy 2nd with Kory then the usual group run.

6/22, Wednesday - Shavano, Tabaguache, Antero - 21 miles, 9200', 7:13
Started from Blanks cabin and after a few switchbacks took the east ridge all the way to Shavano's summit. I feel like the trail is probably just as fast here as the jumbled talus sort of messes with my hiking cadence and rhythm. I was on Tabaguache 30 minutes later ready to figure out my descent to Browns Creek. I decided to take a rib of talus which ended up being the most loose pile of rock I've ever been on, I had so many rocks tumble into my ankles I started getting really frusterated! Thankfully, I was able to traverse over to some snow and glissaded to just below treeline. I found a nice line along the marsh then waded through Brown's creek to take a line directly over Mt White's shoulder which contoured into Antero's south ridge. From Antero I ran east along a ridge then descended another miserable pile of talus until I found a very long stretch of snow which was fantastic for glissading. The trail down to the Colorado trail was great but I didn't quite realize how much running I had left to get back to the car, all with no calories or water.
On top of Tabaguache looking at Antero in the distance.
6/23, Thursday - South & North Arapaho - 6 miles, 3600', 2:16
Kyle and I wanted to Audubon to Navajo but we both had almost no cash and were $4 short of the $10 needed to get to the trailhead. After learning that the nearest ATM was in Nederland it just made more sense to go do the Arapaho traverse. I hadn't been on the fun 3rd class traverse in a while and it may have been the better choice as the clouds situation suggested we'd probably have had to bail off the traverse anyways.

6/24, Friday - Longs Peak - 11 miles, 5100', 4:10
Up Kieners, down Cables with Kyle and Logan. Hadn't seen Logan in far too long (sometime early last fall), so I was stoked to show him up Kieners for his first time. We went quite casually for a slightly longer round trip time, but the weather was nice and we able to watch Tony and Jed work their way up the Diamond from various vantages on Kieners. Cables was less of cascading waterfall than it was, but there is still a few snow crossings on the upper north face.
If you look really, really close you can see Tony on the Diamond
6/25, Saturday - Longs Peak - 9 miles, 5000', 3:07
Up and down Cables in the evening with Jack, who hadn't ever been on anything remotely technical or above 8,000ft in about 2 months. Not including a few stops for pictures I think we were under 3 hours, an especially good time for a first time up high in months!
Still a good glissade below the North Face
6/26, Sunday - Creek Path - 5 miles, 0:36
Long way to the grocery store.

Week Totals:
70 miles

Sunday, June 12, 2016

May 30 - June 12

5/30, Monday - AM: Climbing || PM: Green Mtn - 6 miles, 2500', 1:33
Easy climbing with Jack and his brothers on Treasure Wall in the morning to avoid Bolder Boulder congestion. Green in the evening with a tiny (6 maybe) RMR group, we made great time though!

5/31, Tuesday - AM: Jamestown Peaks Duathlon - Bike: 30 miles, 3600', 2:08; Run: 8 miles, 2800', 2:09 || PM: Salomon Run - 4 miles, 1700', 0:43
Biked up to Jamestown which (un)fortunately includes Lee Hill with the Lefthand construction so I got two doses of that beast. There are three ranked peaks just north of Jamestown, Bald Mountain, Porphyry Mountain and Golden Age Mountain. None have trails and a few have a bit of private property to skirt around. Fun little outing in the hills. Salomon group run to Royal Arch in the evening.

A photo posted by Cordis Hall (@cordisimo) on

6/1, Wednesday - Off
It may have been national running day but I was beat from yesterday so I rested.

6/2, Thursday - Tomato Rock, Regency, Royal Arch, 5th Flatiron, Fist, Green Mtn - 6 miles, 3200', 1:57
Quick-ish lap on a linkup that I should probably frequent more often. In the case where I go from the 5th to the Fist it would probably make more sense to do use the "hole" descent rather than the south side ledge.

6/3, Friday - 1st Flatiron, Chase the Sun, 1st Pinnacle, Slot - 4 miles, 2100', 1:17
Out late last night so I just got out for an easy scramble with Kyle in the evening. Met him at the base of the 1st before running through the list. I hadn't been down into the Amphitheater in ages and had only ascended the 1st Pinnacle by its Southeast Face once so it was fun to get up that once more. After downclimbing the west bench dihedral I was feeling good so I went for the Slot which I had only once ascended (and had to use climbing shoes). This time I felt very comfortable though still had to suss things out quite a bit for the exit move from the slot to the face. The whole Amphitheater has really great routes I should do more often, a lot more honest climbing too.

A photo posted by Cordis Hall (@cordisimo) on

6/4, Saturday - Golden Gate Canyon - 14 miles, 2100', 4:43
Managed to get completely lost on the approach to the aid station we were volunteering at (luckily we left several hours early) so we ended up taking a rather large tour hike around the park. Then I was running up the hill to grab bottles from runners, bombing down the hill to get ahead of them, then filling up their bottles so they wouldn't have to wait around for that. So that gave me about eighty 8ft hill repeats before hiking back out (on the correct course).

6/5, Sunday - Free For All, Butterfly/Fandango, Red Slab, T-Zero, 1st Pinnacle, Slot - 5 miles, 3100', 3:37
Fairly tired from being on my feet all yesterday so I took it pretty easy effort-wise. Started with practice lap of Free For All then randomly decided I needed to check out Butterfly. I'm not sure if I ended up on the correct route (may have been on Yellow Brick Road), but I started at the base of the 1st and stemmed along the Witch's Cabin boulder until I hiked up a bit of dirt to a large slab which I climbed up into a series of strenuous roofs. There were several places where had I had a rope to catch a fall I would have made very fun moves but alas, without that safety net I limited the risk taking and took generally safe lines. Rather than rejoining the Direct route I branched farther over again and climbed the Fandango dihedral which was pretty fun. For a second lap of the 1st I worked on Red Slab before descending to the Amphitheater. There I went through a counter clockwise circuit ending with the Slot. My hands were sweaty at this point I could barely lock them into the jams to pull out of the chimney, certainly a tough route for me which is at the limit of what I'll solo.

Week Totals:
10 unicorns
4 goblins
0 wizards

6/6, Monday - Longs Peak - 12 miles, 5100', 5:56
A proper day of alpine scrambling! Kyle and I made good time to the Keyhole where we donned crampons to ascend the class 2/3 ramp to the False Keyhole and join the sort of technical Keyhole Ridge. The ramp up was all snow so we used crampons and axes. After we finished the ramp Kyle said he wanted to dry off his shoes, I informed him then that it was futile and he could expect to be climbing on wet rock for the next hour or so. We managed our way up to the first tower finishing with some precarious sloping ledges and a vertical flake with enormous exposure. The second tower didn't seem quite as hard but the exposure was consistently huge. The final notch to gain the last piece of ridge to the summit proved to be the biggest time-suck, we ended up downclimbing almost all the way to the Northwest Gully. We finally gained the summit in about 3:30 elapsed and I decided on the Loft as our descent route. variable snow conditions from dry to icy crust to soft led us to Clark's Arrow before glissading some 800ft down to Chasm Lake, probably the highlight of the day. Ran most of the way back down at a good clip -- setting the bar high for good times in the alpine already this summer!
Kyle working his way up early on.
We weren't sure this part was "on-route" but it provided the most exciting move of the day: a layback to mantle with only smears for feet!
Big exposure but easier moves on the second tower. The Dove snowfield lurks a few hundred feet under Kyle's heels!
6/7, Tuesday - Freeway + Salomon Group Run - 6 miles, 2100', 1:23
Went for a quick lap up and down Freeway and ended up PR-ing by a good margin on the round trip (27:41 car-to-car). Salomon group run afterwards.

6/8, Wednesday - Bike: Brainard Lake - 52 miles, 6400', 4:03
Wanted to duathlon my way up Queens Way to Apache peak but I arrived far to late to be climbing up warm and soft snow. I tried to salvage things by heading to Mt Audubon but the approach was solid with about 3ft of snow, so I just turned back around. I was feeling dreadfully tired most of the time so I stopped in Ward for a cheap espresso and a couple cookies before coasting back to Boulder.

A photo posted by Cordis Hall (@cordisimo) on

6/9, Thursday - Kelso Mtn, Torreys Pk, Grays Pk - 9 miles, 4800', 3:34
Parked at the decrepit old cabin  with Kyle and Barkley'ed up some obscenely steep terrain (2,000ft in a mile), of which half was postholing in the trees. The ridge from Kelso Mtn to the saddle had some painful ice crust but thankfully the final couple hundred feet of 3rd class downhill was dry enough to enjoy. Kelso Ridge was in way better shape than I thought, which is good because I only brought poles. Tagged Grays and decided the ridge over to McClellan/Edwards/Ganley looked too snowy to enjoy so we dropped back down and postholed back to the car.

A photo posted by Cordis Hall (@cordisimo) on

6/10, Friday - Tomato Rock, Regency, Royal Arch, 5th, Fist, Green. T-Zero, 1st Pinnacle - 7 miles, 2900', 2:40
Kendrick had been fixin' to get up a couple new scrambles lately so today I aimed to take him up the Fist. Of course, getting to the Fist is an arduous enough task so we made sure to take the line of most excitement beforehand. Our first detour was to Tomato Rock when I learned he had never done it. Made it through the Regency and passed Nick on the arch. As expected, the downclimb off the Fist took a bit longer than usual as Kendrick had never seen the thin crimps before. Tagged Green (as bushwhacking back down would probably take longer than up and over), and descended to the Amphitheater to tag T-Zero and the First Pinnacle.

6/11, Saturday - Grays Pk & Torreys Pk - 8 miles, 3800', 2:29
Guy and I were meeting friends to camp in Leadville and figured a sunset ascent was in order. I felt great on the ascent and PR'ed big on the climb up Kelso Ridge. I jogged back down to Guy and we made our way over to Grays to enjoy a truly unbelievable sunset. Pushed the descent just enough to not need to turn on my headlamp.

A photo posted by Guy Love (@glovevt) on

A photo posted by Guy Love (@glovevt) on

6/12, Sunday - South Massive & Mt Massive - 14 miles, 4900', 4:10
Started with a big group that eventually broke up to some running on the Colorado Trail and myself, Clare and Guy heading up to Massive. I managed to find myself a good distance in front of the pack so I pushed ahead to tag South Massive. Jogged back down to regroup then finished to the top together.
Guy and Clare heading back down the ridge.

Ah, the summer alpine, can't beat it...